The launch driver told us that the “season” doesn’t really begin until July. The relative absence of boats in the marina is testimony.  That is not to say that there are no boats, but there are plenty of available slips and moorings for transients who want to stay for a night or two.  There is an upside for us though.  The moorings in the mooring field are close, so our privacy, while temporary, is nice.   

The scene in town, however, foretells of what is to come.  It is busy.  Each inbound ferry arrives with more passengers than the last.  The parking lots are full. The traffic cops are back on their corners shooing people across intersections to permit headway for those vehicles that made the unfortunate choice of Commercial street.  Multitudes of bikes careen and weave through the tourists all oblivious to their own peril and the “fact” that it is a one way street.     

There are lines and long waits at the restaurants, some caused by the lingering COVID impacts, but the reality is that the town is really filling in.  Krisann and I mostly like to “go where the wind takes us” showing up whenever and wherever we want to eat, but we are succumbing to the constraints of the times. We now recommend making reservations and avoiding peak times.   Every bartender or server we’ve spoken to, and we’ve spoken to quite a few, concur and suggest that it is going to be a crazy summer. 

This is a good point to plug what it is arguably our favorite restaurant in Provincetown.  Café Heaven.  I say arguably only because the thrill is in the hunt and you can be sure that we’ll continue hunting. If it is any indicator, we’ve been there four times in three weeks and have a fifth reserved.  Quinn the owner and his staff have been truly welcoming and kind to Krisann and me.  The menu is broad, eclectic and delicious.  We have yet to try something that didn’t amaze.   Some favorites are the Tuscan Cod, Lobster Martini, 72 Hour Bolognese, and the Texas Burger.  For a drink, try the Gay Redemption.  I was skeptical about a mixture of rye and rum but it is delicious! On Commercial at the foot of Carver Street, Café Heaven’s window seat on the bar side and the bar itself, are perfect for people watching.  See you there…