Epilogue for an Unfinished Blog Part 2-August

In the hopeful, pre-COVID days, we resolved to do many things while in Provincetown. The list was long, if unwritten.

Let’s see how we did compared to plan. Our report card is below.

RESOLUTION: TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE GREAT RESTAURANTS

Grade: A+

This is our “easy A” on the curriculum. Below is a brief synopsis of our restaurant experience:

Overall Favorite:

Café Heaven– Simply amazing food and staff. We dined there every week for 10 weeks-perhaps more. Still, the experience never, ever grew tiresome. Recommend: the Tuscan Cod, 72 Hour Bolognese and the Cote du Rhone (white)

Favorites:

9 Ryder – After our first night at 9 Ryder, we left wondering why didn’t we come here more often in the past? 9 Ryder, tucked at the foot of MacMillan wharf, offers a cozy refuge from the relentless southwest winds as well the relentless antics of Commercial street. Recommend: the Pesce 9 Ryder and an Old Overholt Manhattan.

The Red Inn – … is well, the Red Inn. It is the must stop for happy hour. Like a live-action art gallery, the West End light continually plays with the composition of your surrounding seascapes. Recommend: the Duck Confit with Savory Bread pudding and a Rye and Gosling.

Canteen – Unlike other restaurants, Canteen didn’t become a take-out place because of COVID. Canteen was ALWAYS a take-out place, albeit one where you would take-out to a picnic table. But, don’t discount Canteen because of that particular pedigree. It is a serious contender for our overall favorite restaurant. Order your treats and grab a seat at the charmingly rustic beachside bar around back. Recommend: the Cod Banh Mi and a Frose.

The Mews – Dark, atmospheric, and romantic, the Mews is the East End counterbalance to the light and airy Red Inn on the West End. In retrospect, we should have visited The Mews more often. Alas, we only visited once this year (though we are hoping to sneak back there at Halloween). Recommend: the Shaking Beef and the r2-Tito’s Cosmic Cosmo.

Spiritus – Krisann and I are at polar-opposites on this one. While I am not afraid to say I like Spiritus, my better half claims to not like Spiritus. Yet her actions suggest otherwise seeing as she mooches more than a few bites whenever I wear her down and get to go. Pro– tip: order by the slice. The whole pizzas take on the flavor of cardboard from the box. Recommend: duh…, pizza (cheese).

Old Favorites:

The Lobster Pot – At one time the Lobster Pot was our go-to. Sure it can be touristy, but the food is solid and the vibe was always fun. The lobster pot is our traditional landing spot on arrival in PTown. This year, however, the ‘Pot’s “COVID super-protection-production line” arguably removed some risk of infection and definitely removed any risk of fun. I have heard their strictures have loosened, but it was disappointing at the time(s). Nevertheless… Recommend: Tuna Poke, Portuguese Kale Soup, Mojitos

Jimmy’s Hideaway – This review is difficult. I still like and will continue to frequent Jimmy’s. But it is feeling old to me. Don’t get me wrong… I am feeling old to me. But Jimmy’s these days, reminds me of one of those restaurants my parents used to frequent-(one also a “Jimmy’s”) Recommend: Southern Fried Chicken, The Federalist Zinfandel.

Front Street –Though Front Street is small and dark, the Tea Smoked Duck made it worth the trip. The duck alone was enough to make up any of the space’s shortcomings. Not so this go ’round. The duck didn’t live up to our recollections and our unintentionally comic, but intentionally surly wait-person all but ensured that we would not be returning until more favorable reports start coming back in.

New Attractions:

Sal’s Place– Sal’s place is buried beachside in a residential section of the West End. It is possible to walk right by and we did! Two of the times that we had guests this summer, we chose Sal’s as a special place to go. Recommend: Chicken Parmesan and Old Fashioned

Bayside Betsy’s – For years, Bayside Betsy’s has been there right before our very eyes and yet, we stayed in our rut. At the invite of some friends in town we had lunch on the deck and lots and lots of wine. The salad was great, the wine was cold-cold, and the company was engaging. Bayside Betsy’s has made it to the must return list. Recommend: House Salad with grilled shrimp and Harbor Town Sauvignon Blanc

Liz’ Café Anybody’s Bar– As described in the Epilogue for an Unfinished Blog part 1, Liz’s is a snug yellow and white storefront on Bradford street where we had breakfast several times. We DO need to go back for dinner. Recommend: California Omelet and the homemade Corned Beef Hash

Café Maria – Two hundred yards away from 9 Ryder is the take out window and patio of Café Maria. A good place creating a bad habit. Recommend: Sausage Egg Cheese on Portuguese Roll

Fast:

Twisted Pizza – Recommend: Vanilla/Chocolate swirl Soft Serve

Georges Pizza – Recommend: Steak and Cheese.

Connie’s Bakery –Good little hang out for breakfast. Order at the counter and watch the comings and goings from the Adirondack chairs out front. Recommend: Southwest Scramble

Closed:

Saki– This closure hurt. Although “Saki Sushi” is still promoted out front at sister restaurant JDs, the experience of dining a beautiful de-sanctified church on delicious Asian food is no more. Missed: Sushi and One Night in Bangkok.

Spindler’s – This one is not actually closed. The have such funky COVID hours that not one of our ten attempts to have one of the best Mai Tais in town were successful. Missed: Mai Tais

Missed:

These regulars simply could not be squeezed in over the summer.

RESOLUTION: HAVE MANY GUESTS ABOARD

Grade B

The pages of our guest book stand empty, but we did have guests. We never remembered to have our friends make an entry. There were a few overnighters, and several groups of friends and family made the trip to “the end of the world” to spend time with Krisanngria and her crew.

RESOLUTION: SAIL MORE

Grade B-

Because days with settled weather were rare, day sailing had to compete other land-based activities namely, work and eating (see above). But when we did sail it was usually glorious. Home in Boston Harbor, Krisanngria faces narrow channels, strange currents, strong tides and thick marine traffic. In contrast, down in Provincetown Harbor and Cape Cod Bay, the wind alone decides where we go. Sailing here is easy, stress free and enjoyable.

RESOLUTION: GET IN SHAPE

Grade C

What list of resolutions is complete without a commitment to get in shape? But, like my tan, any fitness gains were only incidental. The physicality of all day boat-life combined with daily walking kept the pounds off. However, maintaining weight is not the same as fitness. Any other type of working-out just could not be squeezed in.

RESOLUTION: READ MORE

Grade: D

The Shipping News by Annie Proulx. That’s it. That is all I read for the entire summer. In my mind, having no television on board meant that I would read volumes. Instead, I was rocked to sleep soon after the sun went down. The exhaustion of daily marine life and to a lesser degree the tyranny of the internet conspired to keep the page count to a minimum.

RESOLUTION: TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE BEACHES

Grade: D

For all intents and purposes, Provincetown is an island. Some of the most beautiful beaches in the world surround this unique town. For this reason, and considering the narrow hook shape of the Cape, the beach potential is unlimited. Unfortunately, I can’t completely blame the weather for not getting to a beach-but I can mostly blame it. In June we were acclimating. July was a washout. Moreover, August was cut short by Henri. Consequently, we had a measly two days at the beach. And, if the truth be told, half of one of those days was technically by a pool. (PS… I also resolved to get a tan this year and give that a Grade B- , at best. Any tan was incidental from the outdoor lifestyle)

RESOLUTION: SWIMMING

Grade D

August 13^th, 6 days prior to Krisanngria’s departure from Provincetown for good, marked the first, the last, and only swim off the boat. A disappointment for sure, but the nominal threat of sharks and the poor weather arguably made taking a dip off the stern far less attractive.

RESOLUTION: FISHING

Grade F

Of the many pastimes that I used to love, but never do anymore (a potential blog post in its own), fishing is perhaps the activity that I miss the most. Nearly 20 years have passed since I last took the boys out fishing (Really, detangling for Dad.) However, this year, my home is surrounded by water! The Cape is surrounded by water! Consequently, a line would ALWAYS be in the water! Months ahead, I bought my license, borrowed a rod and reel, and bought a plug. Then, the gear was tucked away in a lazarette-never to see the summer sun.

No fishing, but a big fish nonetheless. Mola Mola off Herring Cove

In the end, this experiment in “kind-of” living aboard was one of many paradoxes; hectic yet reflective, breezy and still, far yet close, cold and hot, loud and quiet, exhausting yet restful, (wet and less wet?). And, while we didn’t end up doing many of the pre-planned activities, we had more fun than we ever thought possible and succeeded in doing what we like most: spending time with each other and meeting many, many great and interesting people along the way.