Thursday
As of May 26, Krisanngria is still not launched. Foregoing any sense whatsoever, not a single moment over Memorial Day was spent weekend getting the her ready. Making sense is over-rated. Instead, a new job and a new pup in the family means that we will have to take only short breaks whenever we can squeeze them in. Vacations of a week or more are on indefinite hold. So when Krisann suggested earlier this week that we have a quick get away over the holiday… boat be damned, we’re getting away!
Is there a place that we love, is close to home, and meets our new criterion- dog friendly? Yup, our old standby- Provincetown. The timing was really late to book lodging, particularly for Memorial Day Weekend, but the Queen Vic, a favorite, still had four nights available. And, though some of those days would be spent working, we were happy to be going…but were now in a rush to finish up work, pack, and to figure out how transportation -because driving is only used a last resort. Taking the ferry is far better than driving. On the ferry, Cape holiday traffic is avoided and a car isn’t really needed there-especially on a short stay. So as Krisann closed out her Thursday deliverables, I tried to figure out how to get us on one of the ferries which were quickly was selling out of seats. In the end, I had to book one way on each of the lines; Baystate Cruise lines for the outbound trip and a return on Boston Harbor cruises. To get to the pier, I checked dog friendly Uber, pet taxi’s, and limo services, but in the end, we went retro and hailed a good old-fashioned taxi. Not only did the cab have the space for Krisann, me, the dog, and our huge pile of stuff, the cost was $100 less than a limo service! Earlier, I was quoted $120 for a limo to take us, one-way, the under two miles from my house to the World Trade Center. The cab cost $17-including tip.
I expected the worst for Belle’s first boat ride but she behaved well, as did my top-heavy luggage-kennel-cart contraption. This trip was also our first time on Baystate cruise lines and Belle attracted plenty of attention while we chatted with our neighbors and enjoyed a couple of cocktails from well-stocked bar. The wind had been out of the east for the past few days causing a choppy ride across Cape Cod Bay, but all and all it was a very good experience on Baystate.
Wisely, on arrival, we found a cab rather than march our circus all the way to the Inn. The Queen Vic, owned and operated by the ever-hospitable Stan and Josh, has impeccable grounds and interior. The Inn has a license to serve liquor from the small bar at the back of the house and with a patio that overlooks the Boat Slip- it is perfect for watching the comings and goings each afternoon as “Tea” begins and ends.
Concerned about Belle being too noisy when left alone in the room, we went on a “knock out” walk first thing. We didn’t get far. Passing the Crown and Anchor, our friend Kiko from Boston Chops wrangled the three of us over to the outside bar. We put up no struggle. Kiko whipped up a few of his famous Old Cubans which we sipped into the cool evening as Belle attracted a steady-stream of doting staff.
Later, we were hungry but still with dog in hand, I spirited Belle back to the room leaving Krisann to snag the last remaining table at Café Heaven. Tonight would be the first of three visits to Heaven in four days. Café Heaven might just be elbowing out the Red Inn as our favorite restaurant in town. The Red Inn has the view, but it is a good walk outside of town. Heaven has good vibe, great staff, an excellent menu, and is close to home base.
Friday
For years, I’ve shopped for my spring and summer clothes in Ptown. You can find clothes that you can’t find everywhere and, since I am always there with Krisann (who has all the taste), most of my seasonal shopping can be accomplished in one shot. There are several great stores in town, but today, we spent a long and expensive morning at a favorite, Henry and Company. Fortunately for me, Krisann could focus her brilliant fashion eye on my search alone because finding women’s clothing in Ptown is not as rewarding.
As we were passing by the NorEast Beer Garden two spots at the bar opened up and called to us. This cool hideaway on Commercial has been on our list for a while, but we’ve never made it in. Our overall impression was mixed with Mai Tais being the best item we ordered. But while we ate, the sun that was hidden all day finally began to show. That afternoon, the three of us (Belle included) enjoyed happy hour on the Queen Vic patio to watch the parade and to wait for our friends Mark and Ed with whom we were having dinner. By 7:15 the post-Tea-Dancers packed our patio to keep their party going.
Later, diners ahead of us malingered over their desserts at Cafe Heaven, but we were rewarded with the bump out window table. It is the nicest table in the restaurant and arguably in town (of those without water views). Good friends and good food made for a perfect evening which we capped with a walk with Belle among the late-night crowd.
Saturday
Spring in Massachusetts is made up, at best, of one or two good days. The rest all are cold, windy, and rainy. In other words it is awful. True to form, Saturday as filled with mist and rain, but at least the gods grudgingly gave us a bit of warmth. We and few others had morning coffee at Joe sheltered under umbrellas. Belle lay at our feet without even noticing the wet.
Belle gets mauled. The pet store is only a 5 minute walk away and Belle needs a new harness. But EVERYONE wants to say “hi”. Not to Krisann. Not to me. Only to Belle. In a town where all dogs are popular, she is a huge hit. Most people politely ask permission to approach and Belle politely (for the most part) enjoys their “lovin’. Those not bold enough to introduce themselves, make faces, cry out with an “Oh…my… God…” or an “ohhhhhh”, and point out Belle to the rest of their group. For her own part, Belle, rushes to EVERY dog to say “hi”. Some of them, like Lincoln and Teddy, welcome the explosion of canine exuberance. Other dogs can’t be bothered, but undeterred, Belle charges them all. The result is an hour long, twisting, turning, tugging, romping, pinballing walk down Commercial street. And we need to get back soon to meet our friends David and Ken.
Lunch with David and Ken at Ross’ Grille happened in a dining room that lighter and airier than I remembered. (we did not go there at all last year) We had a nice time catching up and the next time at Ross’ I will try the onion soup which I hear is spectacular.
We next tried the Monkey Bar which has been closed for a few years. The crowd was very young, the music very loud, and yes, I guess I am very old, so cracking a bottle of Rose on our patio for day two of the parade seemed like a more mature option. We hung out on the patio until the sun set, the fog rolled in, and it got cold. At recommendation of David we had dinner at Mezze in the East End. I am not a biggest fan of Mediterranean food and the menu was small. You could say it was: Mezze-Mezze
Sunday
Like the sailors we claim to be, we let the wind guide us to our next destination, but we are frequently adrift trying to find a coffee place that opens before 7:00 am. Café Maria at the foot of Fisherman’s Wharf (Provincetown Marina) opens at 6:00 am. So it is there we found ourselves for coffee and egg sandwiches on Portuguese rolls to start our final full day. As we sat with Belle, new friends Jim, Kendra, and their three dogs (two of them labs), we planned another full day of doing nothing.
With Belle down for the count we lunched at Café Heaven’s bar-Croque Monsieur for me. The sandwich was delicious but way over my carb allotment for the month. From there we headed over to the outdoor bar at the Crown to see Kiko before we leave, but discovered that the ladies have commandeered the outdoor area for an event. But the indoor bar, where Justin is tending the bar, is still open to the public and we stay a while, occasionally sneaking a peak over our shoulders at the rave going on outside. Doing nothing is exhausting and decide not to have a big meal. This night cheesesteaks at George’s fit the bill.
Monday
Monday is the nicest of the four days… and we have to go home. We sail on the 11:30 ferry allowing some time in town as well as some time at home-so we can deal with the Sunday (Monday) scaries… They are worse today not only does because of the upcoming work-week but also that little to-do called launching Krisanngria…
